a few floyd questions

[Metahead]

when you change strings on them, do you prop up the bridge with a piece of something to keep it from going down, or do you do them one at a time.

would it mess the spring tension up if it changed from 11's to 9's?

[jet66]

You can either block it and take them all off at once (that is how I prefer to do it) or do them one at a time if you so choose.

If you go from 11's to 9's, you will definitely need to adjust the springs. Loosen/lessen in this case. In fact, changing gauge, I would block it, remove all of the strings, restring, stretch and tune, lock them down, remove the block, loosen/lessen the tension until your tuning is back 'in' again. You may have to fine tune, if the string stretch isn't totally gone. You would also be wise to check and adjust your intonation when changing gauge.

[sirsloop]

yeh... you'll be doing a complete redo if you are going to different strings.

I could explain how, or you can simply watch the video linked below and do it yourself, or you can take it to a shop for complete work up.

http://youtube.com/watch?v=P1c-7-VMY_w

[Metahead]

how much is it to take it into a shop?

[DeathrollJM]

^don't do that, change your own strings, its a good skill to have. I loosen up all the strings first where they don't hold any tension, then i pop off the springs, remove the locking rods to release the strings and clean the guitar as needed. Then before i put the bridge back in i put all the new stings on and lock them into the bridge, then i place the bridge back into the guitar and put the springs back on (don't loosen the spring claw, you will have to take a flat head screw driver and use that as a tool to pull the strings back onto the bridge and then use the but of the screw driver to tap them all the way down. Then you tighten the strings and tune. I do this method because i fear that blocking the bridge will bend the rods, and usually after every change i like the remove the bridge and clean it with a toothbrush and water so that way you have a good clean surface for all the mechanics inside the bridge, this ensures good intonation and for the guitar to stay in tune better, locking tremolos can still go out of tune if the saddles and lockers are filled with dirt and dust.

[DeathrollJM]

yeh... you'll be doing a complete redo if you are going to different strings.

I could explain how, or you can simply watch the video linked below and do it yourself, or you can take it to a shop for complete work up.

http://youtube.com/watch?v=P1c-7-VMY_w

the dudes action was WAY too high.

also, for the sake of cosmetics, never stick anything between your guitar and the bridge (like the spoon and the 9v battery). I learned the hard way that it fucks up your guitar's paint.

[Metahead]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wwNVjNohOt4

use a block like this? and y does this guy put the strings in backwards?

[Fikealox]

My computer isn't liking the video, but if he's got the ball ends up near the tuners, he's probably just done it that way to avoid having to cut off the balls. There's no real advantage to it other than saving a minute or two... The disadvantage is that you might have to have more turns on the tuners than you otherwise would.

[DeathrollJM]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wwNVjNohOt4

use a block like this? and y does this guy put the strings in backwards?

yeah thats the best way to use a block, i personally don't like blocking the bridge, as i have said, i have had the guitar damaged from blocking the bridge, but the way he showed was the safest way to do it. And putting the strings in backwards makes your life easier (no awkward and damaging strings kinking), just do it that way and don't ask questions, you'll be good.:rollin

[DeathrollJM]

My computer isn't liking the video, but if he's got the ball ends up near the tuners, he's probably just done it that way to avoid having to cut off the balls. There's no real advantage to it other than saving a minute or two... The disadvantage is that you might have to have more turns on the tuners than you otherwise would.

in the video he cuts all the strings about 2 inches after the end of the bridge to prevent it from having to much string slack.

[ozzuk1]

http://www.shredaholic.com/floydrosesetup.html

I dont follow the whole guide unless im going to condition the board, and clean the frets and whatnot...

Though keeping the trem stable with a taped up pencil to stop the finish getting damaged is a good idea as it's much easier to tune into pitch...

Action is a personal preference I prefer to have my action fairly high as I feel the notes ring out clearer, and you dont get any fret buzz either...

It's also going to be more stable if you restring one at a time but this won't be as much of a factor if you support the trem so it won't dip into the cavity...

In regards to restringing backwards, I have done this but many peopel choose to have the balle end's sit inside the tuning peg, which can damage the tuner as its designed to have the normal part of the string inserted into it not the ball end's windings...

However you can put the strings in backwards witha bit of slack from the ball end so it's not against the tuner and then trim it off....

[jet66]

Though keeping the trem stable with a taped up pencil to stop the finish getting damaged is a good idea as it's much easier to tune into pitch...

That's why I do it that way. It's like working with a hardtail. Once you are tuned up and stretched out, it's a simple matter of tweaking the trem springs a tad.

[ozzuk1]

Yeah it does make life easier as the floyd doesent shift about so much when getting the strings back into pitch/tension...

[sirsloop]

IDK... if you are gonna go from 11's to 9's I would just take the entire thing apart. Take all the strings off, remove the FR (TIGHTEN YOUR LOCKING BOLTS FIRST OR YOU'LL LOSE YOUR BLOCKS!), clean the entire area, remove a spring and/or loosen the dogbone, attach the FR again, start the long process of setting the thing up and retuning. Yeah, I personally don't block the bridge... I just start with the strings in the bridge and pull them up. Just switch sides as you go... do the lowest string, highest, 2nd lowest, 3nd highest, etc etc. I would start with the micro tuners set pretty high as you'll most likely be tightening as the strings stretch...even if you pre-stretched them before playing.

IDK... everyone has their own way of doing it... some more "right" than others I suppose?

[Metahead]

DeathrollJM, i do intend on learning to string my own guitar, but i thought i would take it in the first time because im changing gauges. sensable? and how much would it cost me?

[sirsloop]

$55 w/ a FR is probably not out of this world... For that price they should be polishing your frets, restringing, setting the action up/truss rod adjustment, tuning, checking the electronics... basically going through the entire guitar. Next time if you just want to change strings from 9's to new 9's it will be much easier. Just do one at a time and you'll be set. Doing this all is not out of most people's skill level, but if you have never done it, it takes time to figure the action out and get it low without buzz. There's a lot more "feel" that goes into setting one up vs a had tail. For example, if the bridge is too high an experienced person would know how many turns to put on the screws on the back, or if a spring addition is necessary.

You could always try it yourself, and if you fail take it to a shop ;)

[ampartic]

You might need to adjust your truss rod. More tension to less will probably cause a bit of overbow in your neck making open strings buzz as well as buzz in the mid area frets on your neck. To answer your question no you don't need anything to stop the bridge when you're only changing one string at a time.

Changing gauges on a FR is a major pain since you basically have to resetup your guitar and intonation is hit and miss and takes longer to get right as opposed to a fixed bridge. Find a set of strings you like and stick with them.